Blast from the Past - 1986 GSXR-1100

by Dave Pawlikowski

Quite a few things happened since the last time I was writing about this bike. I have decided, with help from Bob from Empire GP, to re-paint the bike in its stock colors and not just a generic black or gray. Bob offered to do it for a great price, and he can also fix the fuel tank as it is very repairable. Nothing wrong with saving me a little money!

I ordered a bunch of parts this week, including the pipe and jet kit. I had wanted to put a D+D nickel plated unit on it but they don't make it anymore for this bike - too old! I know of one place that was sure to make one for an old Suzuki GSXR and that is Yoshimura. They still make the old style round canister / turned down tip race pipe and one is on its way. A Dyno-Jet Stage One kit is coming, and I have an old set of individual filters in my tool box that fit these carbs perfect. Also, new RK chain and SunStar sprockets in stock gearing, but now a 530 and not a 532 sizing for easier gearing selection. 532 is an odd size, while 530 is a standard. I also ordered new levers, grips and mirrors. All inexpensive aftermarket re-productions and readily available.

To get this weekends work going, a trip to the Suzuki dealer netted me new NGK spark plugs, four new exhaust gaskets and two new fork seals. I only have one bad seal, but you should replace in a pair if the front end is already apart and it is an easy job.

I dragged the bike outside and used both the front and rear stands to get the bike off the ground. The plan today was to install new fork seals along with fresh 10wt. fork oil, give the bike an oil change, install the new plugs and flush the clutch hydraulic system. I was also going to clean up the front end and paint the front wheel back to its original black. I am not very fond of the white.


Just getting ready to go. The stands are a must have for home sportbike mechanics.

The complete front brake system is then pulled off. It looks in good shape, and the pads look to be in very good shape. Depending on how the calipers actually work out, I may re-build them. The kit is very cheap and it is only a few rubber seals. However, there is a slight scrape on a left hand caliper from a previous accident and I wouldn't mind replacing that if I can find one very cheap. Next, off come the speedo cable, and the NEAS electrical leads. The front wheel is then unbolted and dropped, and the fender and fork brace pulled off. The brace is missing two mounting bolts, but I have a few in a box. No problem. The front end is off a different bike, as several pieces on the forks are drilled for safety wire. These are the only bits drilled. This bike has had a bit of history before I got it. I then pull the forks off and bring them into the garage.


The front brake system, and the bike without its front end.

I bring the forks into the garage and inspect them. The tubes are in excellent shape, as there are no nicks or burrs. A very good sealing surface. The right leg was the one leaking, and that is the one I pull apart first. I spin the cap off, and it pops off in my hand due to spring pressure. I pull the spring and it is dry. I flip the tube to drain the fluid and the fork is just about empty. It should have 420cc's of fluid and maybe had 100cc's. That seal was bad for a while. I right the tube and pry off the dust seal and notice that it is very oily. Under the seal is a retaining clip that slots into the lower fork, then a washer, then the actual mechanical seal. The clips is popped off with a small flat bladed screwdriver, and the washer falls out next. I cannot find my special tool to pop the seal, so I use another flat bladed screw driver and position it in the middle of the seal, so as not to hit either side of the fork tubes. A couple firm taps and the blade is about a 1/4" in. I press in an gently pry up. The seal comes up, and I pop it off. It is VERY DIRTY. This seal was leaking for a while. Underneath that is another washer. I drop that out and then, using contact cleaner, spray down everything and wipe it off with a rag. Everything is now clean and dry.



The front forks ready to be worked on, oil on the slider, pry off the dust seal, pop the clip, gently tap and pry off the bad oil seal, the five pieces that help keep the slider clean and fork oil in. No fork oil, no suspension damping.

In reverse order, I put it all back together. Carefully. First the washer, and then the oil seal. Using a small flat tipped punch, I gently tap it in. Then, I install the next washer and use this to tap down into its land the oil seal. I install the clip and it CLICKS right in! Just slide on the oil seal and wipe everything down. It looks good. Next up, I add 420cc's of new 10wt. fork oil. I pump the fork a few time to work the new oil through the fork internals and now put the springs back in. Last up, the flat washer and cap. For these, I have to place the fork on the ground in the vertical and while pulling the tube up, pressing down with the nut in my palm and slowing spinning it, hoping to catch a thread and screw it on. It screws on after a second and I grab a ratchet and snug it down. It will be properly torque'd on the bike when it can be held by the triple clamp. I repeat this for the second fork leg. Done!



Installing the springs, all the parts when you change the fork seal, the flat punch to tap the seal in, a nice clean tube showing how the new seal works, two fixed and cleaned for legs, oil change time!

After all this is done, I install my new NGK spark plugs and hook up the plug wires. Next up, I decide to dump the oil and add some clean, cheap 10/40 along with a new filter. The oil in there is six years old, and I want to dump it, run some cheapo oil in there to help flush out the engine, and then add some Silkolene Race Lube Synthetic later. When I drop the drain plug, I smell gas. The bad carb must have dumped gas into the engine due to a bad float. The oil is very thin. almost water like. I let it drain for about 15 minutes, and then drop the filter. I need the official SRNE Maintenance Day Oil Filter Wrench to get the spin-off removed. A new Fram is spun on, and some fresh Castrol is put in the bike. This done, and time to address the front wheel. With the bike going to be in stock colors now, the wheels should also be stock color, meaning black. The rotors come off easily and look in good shape. After cleaning the surface, a can of semi-flat spray paint and the wheels look nice. I re-install the rotors and put the wheel back on the bike. Spinning the wheel and looking at the bike head on, the left rotor is spinning straight, while the right rotor is oscillating left to right. It is warped and must be replaced. Salvage yard again.


The new front end, very bad clutch fluid, bleeding the system.

The last thing I do is flush the clutch fluid. When I pop the cap off the master cylinder, I can see that the fluid is just a black mud. I drain it out, add new fluid and along with my bleeding tools begin to run new fluid through the system. The lever is still very stiff after everything is done. I can hear the slave cylinder actuating the clutch, but the lever should be easier to use. I should by the re-build kit which is seals and a plunger, along with a new cam. A cheap kit and looks like its needed. Sitting for six years did this bike no good.

With everything buttoned back up, the bike is pushed back into the garage. And now I make a list of things I need.

MUST HAVE - Left side front peg bracket, right side front peg, stock rear fender assembly, stock rear plate light unit, right front brake rotor, various fasteners.

WISH LIST - Left front brake caliper, both handlebar electrical control pods, complete lock set with stock Suzuki keys, braided lines all around.

A few calls to salvage yards this week and we'll see what we find. See you in a week or so!