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by Dave Pawlikowski
I come back the next day and actually begin the process of
accessing damage. The first thing I want to do is get all of the bodywork off.
This lets me examine in detail the actual condition of these pieces, and also to
just see what they are hiding underneath! As I pull the pieces off, I realize
that I may have to replace the right middle fairing, as it is cracked and
missing a piece. Though the 750 and 1100 can swap a ton of parts, these pieces
cannot. The engine mount hole is in a different position. I will need a 1100
piece. What I do find is wrong fasteners. Stuff from the local hardware store
mixed with OEM stuff. This is an easy fix. Pulling the tail off finds that a
former owner cut wiring to make the plate light work. And did a hack job of it,
too. A lot of little things, but nothing discouraging.
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| Here is the bike in naked form. The
battery is shot and corroding the box. The engine was clean and had no
leaks. A very good sign. |
After all of the bodywork is off, a look at the engine reveals
no leaks anywhere, including the head gasket. Spinning the wheel, the tranny
shifts through all the gears nice and easy. More good signs. The clutch action
is very hard, and should be easy since this is hydraulic. The sight window for
the master cylinder is black. The fluid inside is probably original Suzuki.
Probably a good idea to change that, and lube the cam and pivot for the lever.
Both brake master cylinder's look in better shape and work well. Never the best
unit, the front brake master cylinder will be swapped out for a Nissin unit from
another newer GSXR or ZXR with a remote reservoir and adjustable lever travel.
And maybe swap the clutch master cylinder out for a Katana 600 cable clutch
actuator. And then change....
I want to hear this thing run. I remember how it wouldn't turn
over before and bypass the clutch safety. The wires are above the coils behind the
steering head. Suzuki made it so that to bypass, you just unplug the male/female
from the switch and plug them into each other. Most likely for easy race
conversion, but also convenient as the clutch safety unit always wore out and
failed. I grab the tank and put about a 1/4 gallon of fresh gas in it, hook up
the lines and also install a fresh battery. Pull the choke, tank on RESERVE,
turn the key to ON and press the button. WIR WIR WIR! The first time in six
years that happened. No throttle, and let it turn over. No pop, no nothing.
After a few more tries, I know something is wrong. I give it one more shot and I
then lose my hearing as the HUGEST backfire I ever heard shocks me. I guess I
have spark?
I pull a plug, and it is soaked with fuel. It is also the wrong
plug. Nice job previous owner! I dig through my box and find four old GSXR plugs
in nice shape - who says that being a pack rat is bad? I put the plugs in,
notice that the bike is wearing the wrong coil on the left ( made a note ),
install the tank, turn the key and press the button. VROOM! At first
touch, it fires up and settles into a lumpy idle. Smoke is coming out of the
exhaust, but otherwise the motor sounds OK. I walk around the bike looking for
leaks. As I come back to the left side, there is a puddle of fuel on the ground.
Grrrrrrr!
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| One leaky fork seal (easy fix), one puddle
of gas (not easy fix), HOORAY for good compression, one air box -
just add hammer! |
I shut down the engine and look at the carb. The float drain is
very rusty on Number One carb, and this is where the fuel came from. I grab a
Phillip's and attempt to turn it shut. The screw breaks right off - rusted. They
are steel, not aluminum like the stockers. Now - the carbs have to come off. And
maybe be replaced. Now - everything changes. I had wanted to leave the bike
stock, but with possible carb internal damage as well as the seen external, I
quickly decide to toss the airbox and stock pipe. The pipe is very rusty, so I
had to get rid of it anyway. I reach for the " Persuader ". It makes
quick work of the airbox. Inside the throats of the 34mm Mikuni's, they look OK.
Not discoloration form being contaminated. The slides go up and down easily, and
still hold a slight vacuum. Actually, these 34mm Mikuni CV carbs were nice units
and easy to tune. Though, some 36mm Slingshots from a 88-89 GSXR-750 would bolt
right and and give more power....The pipe is now on the ground and it weighs
about 20 lb's! A nice nickel plated D+D will look good there.
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| I love the twist nuts on the harness, the
starter solenoid looks tampered with, just a pile of parts in the
driveway, the GSXR and FZR side by side... |
I know the engine runs now, and it doesn't leak oil, but I want
to know more. I grab the compression tester. This engine should show 170 lb's
for all four cylinders, and be within 5 lb's of each in pressure. I pull all the
plugs and screw in the hose to the number one cylinder. Hold the throttle wide
open, turn the key and press the button. The engine begins to force cylinder
pressure into the gauge. When the needle stops, this is all the cylinder will
push. I get 170 on the nose. Same for two, three and four. A VERY GOOD SIGN. The
valves will still need to be adjusted, but good compression just makes
everything else seem not important. The bike runs good, its all there, and parts
are readily available in salvage yards. We are on our way!
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| No leaks! Was this the No Fear
factory racer in a previous life? |
And now time to sit down and make a list. I will need new brake
lines - front and back. I should put newer model front calipers on it, along
with the master cylinder. The cable clutch conversion is cheap and easy. A pipe
and jet kit - the most expensive part of this whole operation but good for an
easy 15HP. One fairing middle and one side panel. Paintwork - I am thinking
about Audi TT dark gray. The wheels will be black again, not white. Black
windscreen, new fasteners, some Tapeworks decals. Have the seat re-done in
black. Manual cam chain tensioner should be added, and flush mount directionals.
I really should replace that fuel tank - a 750 tank will also fit.
See you in a week or so!

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